Post by knuckles on Mar 29, 2007 22:36:30 GMT 7
For some reason, hindi ako makapagpost sa DIY thread so dito ko nalang ishare...
This one's easy. A rear disc brake install/conversion.
Of course, you begin with buying this.
A surplus or used rear disc brake assembly.*you must get one with an uncut e-brake cable because you cannot use your old one. :-D
You'll also have to purchase a can of Brake fluid (if you're planning on upgrading to DOT 4, this could be your chance to do it.), a brake repair kit (if you are unsure of the condition of your purchased unit), a grit 1,200 or 2,000 sanding paper and of course some new break pads.
You'll be needing the following tools:
a philips screwdriver (no, not the drink)
a 10 mm box/open wrench (box works rather better esp. to "virgin" bolts and nuts) :wink:
a 12 mm box/open wrench
a 14 mm box/open wrench
a 17 mm box/open wrench
a Jack
a pair of Jack stands
a rag
any old can to catch them brake fluid
and a rubber mallet or a hammer, whichever you prefer hitting yourself with when everything goes haywire.... :bang:
Step 1: Removing the E-Brake cables
Remove your armrest/armrest eliminator console by removing the bolt cover located at the bottom of your e-brake release button. You can pick this with a flathead screwdriver. Then using a Philips screwdriver, remove the screws. If you have an armrest, you probably have 2 more holding the armrest at the back of the armrest.
Remove the armrest and roll up your carpet to expose this:
Loosen the e-brake adjuster as to create some slack to a point that you can remove the cables. Remove the cables from the adjuster then push down the rubber garments.
Now, after doing this its time to loosen your rear tires lug nuts, jack up the car and remove the tires. Like these:
Dirty ain't it?
Remember to use jack stands, safety first! :evil6:
Anyway, now you can get under your car and remove the 12mm bolts that are holding up the e-brake cable. Remove them and now you can pull your e-brake cables off.
Step 2: Removing the trailing arm.
This could be the easiest or the hardest part, depending on the condition of your nuts and bolts since you just have to loosen the 14mm toe bolt and the 2 17mm bolts holding the arm up.
Then remove the lower control arm bolts.
After which, remove the 10mm bolt holding the brake line:
Your brake fluid would start to drip so its best to get a can to catch the dripping fluid.
Finally, remove the 2 14mm camber bolts and your whole trailing arm assembly can now be removed. :-o
Step 3: Installing the Rear disc brake assembly
Just follow the steps in reverse and your all set. I would suggest though that you change your pads at this point while its still uninstalled and if the rotors is covered with rust, you might want to sand it first with a 1,200 or 2,000 grit sanding paper and then clean it off with brake cleaner or wipe it off with brake fluid. If the rotors are too uneven or used up, you would have to have it refaced or changed entirely.
Step 4: Bleeding the brake lines.
After installing, air would have been caught inside your brake lines. So you would have to bleed them. I know you already know how to do this, but for some who doesn't. You might want to ask a friend's help in doing this. In my case, I asked my dad.
Make sure you connected and tightened all the brake lines bolts and the bleeder properly and refilled your reservoir with brake fluid. I usually begin bleeding in the front. Now pump that brake pedal for around 10 times then hold it. Have your friend loosen the bleeder until fluid comes out. You'll feel the pedal depress to the floor. Then have your friend tighten the bleeder again and release you foot from the pedal. Repeat this step until no bubbles can be seen from the bleeder. It would be best if you would connect a hose from the bleeder to the can you used to catch old oil. This way you'll see if bubbles are still forming. Repeat this steps for all. :-D
Step 5: Stop and appreciate what you've done.
At this point, a cold bottle of beer and a juicy meal is recommended!
Tadaa!
At this point, drive up to your nearest camber adjuster shop to have your camber adjusted.
Recommended:
Change your brake master/booster and proportioning valve since pedal feel would feel weird since pedal travel seems too low.
'til next time....
:mrgreen:
;D
This one's easy. A rear disc brake install/conversion.
Of course, you begin with buying this.
A surplus or used rear disc brake assembly.*you must get one with an uncut e-brake cable because you cannot use your old one. :-D
You'll also have to purchase a can of Brake fluid (if you're planning on upgrading to DOT 4, this could be your chance to do it.), a brake repair kit (if you are unsure of the condition of your purchased unit), a grit 1,200 or 2,000 sanding paper and of course some new break pads.
You'll be needing the following tools:
a philips screwdriver (no, not the drink)
a 10 mm box/open wrench (box works rather better esp. to "virgin" bolts and nuts) :wink:
a 12 mm box/open wrench
a 14 mm box/open wrench
a 17 mm box/open wrench
a Jack
a pair of Jack stands
a rag
any old can to catch them brake fluid
and a rubber mallet or a hammer, whichever you prefer hitting yourself with when everything goes haywire.... :bang:
Step 1: Removing the E-Brake cables
Remove your armrest/armrest eliminator console by removing the bolt cover located at the bottom of your e-brake release button. You can pick this with a flathead screwdriver. Then using a Philips screwdriver, remove the screws. If you have an armrest, you probably have 2 more holding the armrest at the back of the armrest.
Remove the armrest and roll up your carpet to expose this:
Loosen the e-brake adjuster as to create some slack to a point that you can remove the cables. Remove the cables from the adjuster then push down the rubber garments.
Now, after doing this its time to loosen your rear tires lug nuts, jack up the car and remove the tires. Like these:
Dirty ain't it?
Remember to use jack stands, safety first! :evil6:
Anyway, now you can get under your car and remove the 12mm bolts that are holding up the e-brake cable. Remove them and now you can pull your e-brake cables off.
Step 2: Removing the trailing arm.
This could be the easiest or the hardest part, depending on the condition of your nuts and bolts since you just have to loosen the 14mm toe bolt and the 2 17mm bolts holding the arm up.
Then remove the lower control arm bolts.
After which, remove the 10mm bolt holding the brake line:
Your brake fluid would start to drip so its best to get a can to catch the dripping fluid.
Finally, remove the 2 14mm camber bolts and your whole trailing arm assembly can now be removed. :-o
Step 3: Installing the Rear disc brake assembly
Just follow the steps in reverse and your all set. I would suggest though that you change your pads at this point while its still uninstalled and if the rotors is covered with rust, you might want to sand it first with a 1,200 or 2,000 grit sanding paper and then clean it off with brake cleaner or wipe it off with brake fluid. If the rotors are too uneven or used up, you would have to have it refaced or changed entirely.
Step 4: Bleeding the brake lines.
After installing, air would have been caught inside your brake lines. So you would have to bleed them. I know you already know how to do this, but for some who doesn't. You might want to ask a friend's help in doing this. In my case, I asked my dad.
Make sure you connected and tightened all the brake lines bolts and the bleeder properly and refilled your reservoir with brake fluid. I usually begin bleeding in the front. Now pump that brake pedal for around 10 times then hold it. Have your friend loosen the bleeder until fluid comes out. You'll feel the pedal depress to the floor. Then have your friend tighten the bleeder again and release you foot from the pedal. Repeat this step until no bubbles can be seen from the bleeder. It would be best if you would connect a hose from the bleeder to the can you used to catch old oil. This way you'll see if bubbles are still forming. Repeat this steps for all. :-D
Step 5: Stop and appreciate what you've done.
At this point, a cold bottle of beer and a juicy meal is recommended!
Tadaa!
At this point, drive up to your nearest camber adjuster shop to have your camber adjusted.
Recommended:
Change your brake master/booster and proportioning valve since pedal feel would feel weird since pedal travel seems too low.
'til next time....
:mrgreen:;D
